Have you noticed that many climbing shoe companies offer a “men’s” and “women’s” version of their shoes? What gives?
Although men’s and women’s foot shape and size vary, does it really make a significant enough difference when you’re choosing your next climbing shoes, beyond aesthetics?
While some brands market their shoes toward a specific gender, the best fit shoe for you really comes down to high and low volume options. Typically, men’s shoes are higher volume, and women’s shoes have a lower volume. However, this gender normative assumption does not always hold true, and the best tactic is to choose the most comfortable, high-performing shoe possible. Here are some tips that will help you do just that.
What does "high-volume" and "low-volume" really mean?
Before we dive into the details and go over the nitty-gritty of choosing a high or low-volume shoe for yourself – here are two simple descriptions that will help you determine whether you need a high or low-volume shoe.
- If your foot has a medium to wide width and/or a high arch, you have a high-volume foot.
- If you have a narrow, slender foot and a flat arch, you have a low-volume foot.
High Volume Feet
If you have a high-volume foot and you’ve been climbing in a low volume shoe, you may be experiencing a combination of discomfort and decreased performance. Your foot may feel compressed at the metatarsals, near the ball of the foot, which can cause foot cramps because the shoe is too narrow. These pains become overwhelmingly obvious on longer routes that place a lot of pressure on your foot. Additionally, your foot may not be fully settling into the toe box. This means that your edging* and toe–down* performance is likely to suffer.
Maybe you have noticed that your climbing shoes put a lot of pressure on the back of the ankle near the Achilles. Performance-oriented climbing shoes contain a tensioned piece of rubber that wraps around the back of the foot. This is called the slingshot rand – the purpose is to drive the foot further into the front of the shoe or the toe box. This is one of the critical components of a shoe and influences how it performs. Without a slingshot rand, stepping on a small foothold or toeing down would result in a backward shift of our foot in our climbing shoes. Consequently, the shoe’s edging ability would be compromised because of a lack of support from the foot.
If you have a foot that needs a high-volume shoe, but you’re using a low volume shoe, you’re more likely to experience the problems outlined above. Low-volume shoes prevent your foot from settling into the toe box. As beneficial as the slingshot rand is to a shoe’s performance, it can cause discomfort if it hits the Achilles tendon in the wrong spot. While this may get marginally better as the shoe breaks in, it will likely never go away entirely, and it is best to avoid altogether by ensuring you select the right shoe type.
Your feet are likely high volume if they are wide,
with high arches, high insteps and bunions.
Low Volume Feet
If you have a low volume foot and you’ve been climbing in high volume shoes, you’ve probably noticed more performance issues than discomfort. There are several reasons that a climbing shoe should fit snuggly, similar to the problems outlined in the high-volume shoe section. But, if your foot slides backward in the shoe, you can lose power in the toe, which will compromise your ability to edge or toe down*; two of the main things a climbing shoe should be able to do!
Beyond that, there are other reasons a snug fitting shoe can impact your climbing. Have you ever tried scrambling down steep terrain in flip flops? We hope not! It sounds like a recipe for disaster. The same goes for climbing shoes – if your foot is slipping and sliding around within the shoe, it may deform under pressure, which will compromise your overall performance.
Additionally, when trying to heel-hook*, your foot may start to slide out of the shoe, or the heel cup will collapse because your heel doesn’t take up enough room to support it. This will become even more apparent when trying to heel-toe cam*, as your entire foot will likely slide around inside the shoe. In all seriousness, though, a lower volume shoe might do wonders for your climbing – so if it’s the most comfortable option for you, give it a try!
There may be no benefit in switching volumes for some climbers, but for those whose feet don’t fit the archetypical norm, it might be worth trying a different volume shoe the next time you are in the market (which may require letting go of your ego).
If you’ve any doubts about your foot swing volume by the pro shop and ask to try on a different volume shoe!
You may have low volume feet if they are narrower,
with low arches and low insteps.
Definitions
Toe-Down : Also referred to as down-turn, this refers to the shoe and foot’s ability to bend down and somewhat hook the hold it is standing on or grabbing, similar to a bird’s talon. It is especially useful on small footholds on overhanging climbs where this hooking action helps prevent one’s feet from skating off the hold and swinging back into space. Down-turned shoes have an obvious and aggressive shape and require the toes to be significantly bent down in order to fit that shape.
Edge-down: Edging means standing on a foothold on the inside edge of the shoe which is the area under the medial side of the big toe. With the foot fitting properly along this edge of the shoe, the foot can relax a little more and rely on the shoe to do more of the work.
Heel-Toe cam: A heel-toe cam means wedging your foot between two pieces of rock, like a large pocket or horizontal crack, such that when you lean back on it to relax, the tops of your toes pull back and up into the top of the rock while the bottom of your heel pushes down into the bottom piece of rock.
Heel-Hook: To heel-hook, place your heel on a hold, usually above or level with your upper body. Snug shoes with stiff heels help greatly. Set your heel, then pull with your foot. It’s as simple as that and the nuances of the technique will come naturally. (definition from Rock & Ice Magazine)
You can also learn more about the unique language climbers use in this post.
The Gear Shops at Ogden, SLC and South Main are open the same hours as the rest of the gym! Come by and find the perfect shoe for your foot next time you visit. We’re always here to help you find the right gear, talk climbing beta, and get you climbing sooner and better than ever.
