Sending season is here! Not sure where to start?
Outdoor climbing season is upon us, and picking projects can be daunting given the sheer volume of high (and low) quality climbing around us here in Utah. And while it might be tempting to abandon all other responsibilities and jump on the rock, we only have so much free time, skin, and energy. So what’s the best way to make it count? Get focused, follow these steps, and take full advantage of the cooler temps this sending season!
1 // Determining your goal
When it comes to achieving a goal, the first step is to make it specific and intentional. Priorities will look different for every climber, and while ticking the next grade is enticing, leveling up is not the only mark of a successful season. Other solid goals may include acquiring more volume or “building your base,” pushing your mental game on a climb outside your comfort zone, or mastering a specific skill on rock. If you haven’t spent a season (or five) base building, it may be wise to focus on building your pyramid. Putting down a large number of easier climbs in a wide variety of areas, rock types, and climbing styles will pay dividends down the road.
If you have multiple projects for the season, it’s more efficient to go all in on one before moving onto the next.
The most achievable (and rewarding) goals are those that are internally motivated. If you’re going for a project because someone else said “you have to climb it,” you feel pressure to keep up with your partner, or you’re trying to level up your Instagram game, your motivation is sure to fizzle out. Avoid falling into this trap by climbing what’s inspiring to YOU. Try hard comes from a deep-down place that you can only access when your heart is really in it.
2 // Doing your research
Not sure where to begin? There are tons of resources to help you pick your perfect project. Pebble, Mountain Project, BetaCache, 8a.nu, YouTube, Vimeo, and good old-fashioned guidebooks are all great starting points. Grades matter, but don’t pigeonhole yourself by only scouting climbs of a single grade. You may be able to climb harder than you think on a route or problem that fits your style. Conversely, you could have a rewarding experience (and learn a lot) by trying something under your limit that is very anti-style.
As a jumping-off point, popular areas for SLC climbers in the fall season include: Joe’s Valley, Triassic, Moe’s Valley, City of Rocks, Big Bend, Castle Rocks, Big and Little Cottonwood Canyons, Moab, Indian Creek, American Fork, and Ogden.
Keep in mind that oftentimes, boulders and routes may look different in person than they do in pictures or videos. It can be helpful in the early season to spend a day hiking around the crag and to scope out what’s visually striking and personally inspiring.
3 // Asking around
Climbers love to spray. Ask around at the gym and loads of people will happily tell you which problems they’ve enjoyed most and which might suit your style and preferences. Those who are experienced and who have spent a lot of time climbing with you will likely be able to give you better recommendations. If your friends climb different styles or also need some beta, feel free to ask any of us here at The Front. We’re all huge climbing nerds and would love nothing more than to help you out!
4 // Keeping conditions in mind
When planning for a big project, make sure you’ll have adequate time to complete it. For much of the state of Utah, this means knowing if and when it may go out of season with a big snowstorm. Don’t go all-in on a project in the high Uintahs—it might only last another week! Pick something that will allow you ample time to navigate the projecting process across a number of sessions (because, you know, limited time, skin, and energy).
If you aren’t sure what the season is like, you can look up historic weather actuals to see the trends from years past.
5 // Being realistic
If you’re anything like us, your to-do list for the season could number in the dozens. A common pitfall is to overcommit yourself to too many projects, and as a result, send nothing at all. Try to really narrow your focus and choose just one or a few climbs you want to send the most. This way, you can realistically dedicate the time and energy needed to send. If you have multiple projects for the season, it’s more efficient to go all in on one before moving onto the next.
SO. Get inspired, plan thoughtfully, fully commit, and always remember, we climb because it is fun.
By Eric Jerome
Marketing Assistant
In addition to being our marketing assistant, Eric is also a sponsored climber for Tension, Kinetik, Evolv, and PhysiVantage. You can keep up with his climbing endeavors or ask for a fall project recommendation on Instagram @eric.jerome.
