Complimentary to the ambiguous and frequently contrived “rules” of bouldering, there are many unspoken and unwritten conventions of bouldering etiquette. Browse the list below to avoid common bouldering blunders!
1 // When in doubt, space it out
Look at an entire problem before getting on the wall. This ensures the problem you are trying doesn’t intersect with another climber’s route and helps to avoid running into someone already on the wall. While on the wall, maintain at least an arm’s length between others and stay outside of their fall zones. When in doubt, leave some space! Again, this is aided by looking at the routes other climbers are on before approaching the wall. Problems often overlap and one climb may end directly above where another begins. Stay out of the fall zone!
2 // Brush 'n' crush
This is a biggie! Every time a climber grabs a hold, chalk, skin particles, sweat, and oils from their hands get transferred onto the plastic (or rock). Climbing shoe rubber is easily transferred as well. Over time, these substances accumulate, filling in the fine-grained texture of the holds and forming a layer of greasy gunk. Not only does this look unpleasant, but it makes the friction far worse, rendering the climbs more challenging. By brushing the climbing holds you are giving yourself the best chance of success while also preserving the quality and integrity of the climbing surface. Serious climbers will brush their holds before and after every attempt.
Located around the gym, you will find stick brushes, which can be used communally to reach distant holds. If you don’t have a smaller handheld brush, you can purchase one at our gear shop! Boars’ hair or other soft-bristled brushes are recommended. Plastic, nylon, and wire brushes should not be used, as they can damage the climbing surfaces.
“By brushing the climbing holds you are giving yourself the best chance of success”
If you’ve seen someone brush all the holds on a climb, it is inconsiderate to then climb on the problem before they have had a chance to try it. If you do climb on a boulder that was freshly brushed, be sure to re-brush it for them after your attempt.
3 // Down climb
Every fall is a ground fall, so reduce the potential impacts by down-climbing rather than jumping off, when possible. If you do jump, please check underneath you to make sure no one is in your fall zone. There is no way to guarantee a safe fall while bouldering, but there are techniques developed that may mitigate some injury risks. Attempt to fall in a controlled manner and use the following general falling guidelines:
– Spot your landing before releasing to ensure it is clear and there is enough landing space.
– Stay relaxed and attempt to absorb the landing while bent knees rolling to your butt, back, or side if needed.
– Avoid extending your arms to catch your fall. If you’d like to learn more, register for our Bouldering 101 course!
4 // Sharing is caring
Climbing is sick, duh.
We are all psyched and want to bone-crush our projects to death, BUT sharing is imperative. Nobody likes a wall hog, and especially during busy weekday afternoons, it can be a challenge to get on the wall. Be considerate of others who may not be as confident approaching the boulders and be aware of others sharing the space. Plus, you probably need more rest between attempts than you are taking anyway...
Taking on the bouldering wall can be hard to navigate for those who are not seasoned climbers. One way to indicate that you are about to go, or want to climb next, is to stand with one foot up on the crash pad (like Captain Morgan).
5 // Ask if someone minds you trying a climb with them
Ego, insecurity, and miscommunication can often culminate in awkward, uncomfortable gym interactions, and sometimes even hurt feelings. If you want to climb a problem, and notice someone else has been trying it, the courteous thing to do is to approach them, and ask if they mind you trying with them. This can be a great icebreaker to make a new friend of climbing partner and ensures there are no hard feelings if you happen to flash their proj.
6 // Minimize Chalk Usage
This can be achieved by shaking excess chalk in the chalk bag, not blowing it into the air. While it may feel pretty badass to throw it up like Jordan, clapping excess chalk into the air can irritate those around you and unnecessarily dirty the facility. Using liquid chalk as a base layer provides long-lasting dryness while decreasing your reliance on powder chalk. You can pick some up in our gear shop!
Learning climbing etiquette takes time. Fortunately, the climbing community is welcoming and broadly non-judgemental, so it’s okay if you don’t get everything correct right away. Check out part two next month for more helpful tips!
