This month, we’re turning the blog over to Kira Seliger: Adult Programs Manager, Private Coach, and Lead Climbing with Confidence instructor. With a specialty in teaching falling without fear, Kira is a powerhouse at The Front! Below she shares one of her most rewarding coaching experiences.
In June 2023, Emily reached out to me because she was interested in working on lead climbing skills and building confidence in her climbing. She had been climbing for about 7 years but had a severe fear of falling on lead – more than apprehension to commit on the wall, this was a fear of the sharp end in its entirety. Much of her fear stemmed from a years’ past bouldering injury, a story not uncommon in the climbing world.
When we started working together, I could hear the fear in Emily’s voice and see it manifest in her body language, even before she got on the wall. We started our first climbing session with a 5.10a route to get warm, and not soon before she was off the ground the takes and tears started, clip after clip. She displayed an obvious passion and motivation for climbing, moving up the wall consistently while being filled with fear.
Slowly but surely, we got to work, with this climbing experience as a baseline. Rather than trying to push her out of her comfort zone — you know, like taking whip after whip as “exposure” — we worked on building rapport and trust. We talked about where the fear was stemming from. We had regular emotional check-ins to determine what kind of training would be appropriate for the day.
We worked on technique and fall practice for months. Some days were big break throughs, and some days we just worked gently on regulation. I’m sure at times the progress didn’t feel linear – because it wasn’t. It never is. There will be days that you feel invincible, and days when it feels like you’ve lost everything you’ve worked for. Both days are important — but very hard to recognize without an outside perspective.
I’m sure at times the progress didn’t feel linear – because it wasn’t. It never is.
Watching Emily’s process, progress, and growth was so exciting. There were many times that I found myself teary-eyed watching her conquer her fears, becoming brave and bold both on an off the wall. A year and a half after we started, Emily sent her first 12a and 12b on lead, and many more since then. She now projects routes with me and is an unstoppable powerhouse.
There are still days that don’t feel linear. There are still days that Emily takes on a 10a or falls off an 11. I have those same days myself and always will. This is probably the time I should insert a motivational quote about the journey being more important than the summit, or something like that. But in any case, I could not be more proud of Emily, or happier about the cool job I have.
Does this story resonate with your journey? Explore our Ascent Series class Lead Climbing with Confidence to add fall practice and head game to your toolkit or explore private coaching. We’ve got over a dozen instructors ready to work with you one on one, on whatever you’re trying to conquer this season.
Check out classes at SLC, Ogden, or South Main.
