Setting can feel like a mysterious, veiled world, full of clattering bolts and screeching impact drivers. The setters, those craftspeople of the climb, have a unique perspective on the sport, and I had the opportunity to have a friendly sit down with a few of them and get the inside scoop into the world of setting. Let’s part the mists!
Meet The Setters:
Cayden
Cayden has been a setter for over 5 years. It started when he helped open a local gym in his hometown of Grand Junction, Colorado. The community was looking for more indoor climbing opportunities and he helped create that space. He strives for diversity within his sets and considers what opportunities and limitations a climb needs to have.
Mariano
Mariano has been setting for 2 years. After his career as a pro rugby player came to an end, he wanted to continue working within the active space. Growing up he spent a lot of time climbing outside in the Patagonia mountains and decided to explore the world of indoor climbing. When our head setter reached out about joining the team, Mariano said yes!
Sebasttian
Seb has been working as a setter for over 5 years. Growing up, he was involved in climbing competitions and loved the unique movement inherent to the sport. He wanted to learn how he could create those kinds of movements for other people to experience and try. He loves to approach setting as a creative opportunity.
Gigi
Gigi is the newest to our team but has an extensive background in setting, having over 10 years of experience! His university had volunteer opportunities for people to try out route setting, and he fell in love with it. Welcome, Gigi!
What is your process when setting? Do you plan as you go, or do you have an idea before you start?
Mariano: After stripping the wall of holds and volumes, I like to see the empty wall as a blank canvas. When I go into the hold room, I look around and listen to what the holds have to tell me. After some time, I can go back with an idea. From there I just build out based on that concept.
Cayden: I do both, but it depends on the day. Some days I go in knowing, and sometimes I have no idea. I find that easier climbs are more limited in intensity, hold type, movement, height on the wall. Which can make them more challenging to set in a way. I try to make sure they are appropriate for the general public. I don’t think about how more experienced climbers may use the climb for a warmup but how beginner climbers may approach the climb.
Gigi: I have three main avenues for setting. If I’m inspired by a specific move, I set around that. I also use the wall as inspiration, if there are angles, if it’s slab, things like that all play into the setting. My last approach is to look at the holds I have, let that take shape.
Can you explain how grading works? What are some factors that go into grading?
Cayden: We use a few elements to find consensus on a climb’s grade – intensity, complexity, risk, hold types, amount of texture on the hold.
Mariano: Every head setter at each gym has their own style, which plays a role in deciding the final grade of a climb. This is why each location is known for having different styles of climbing. We aim to cater the gym to what kind of climbers come in. Salt Lake is our older gym, which brings in a more established crowd, so we set more outdoor-style crimps than usual there. South Main is geared towards a balance of difficulties and plenty of introductory climbs, and Ogden is about having fun, and being dynamic or even silly. We want our grading to be accessible, fun, and with a focus on progression within the easier grades. Well, except at Muscle Beach!
Why do you think people have a different perspective on grades?
Seb: Every climber has a different style, body size, abilities, and flexibility levels. Everyone is their own human, thus will have their own opinion on a climb.
Cayden: That’s right. It really depends on personal experience. One person’s v9 is another’s v5.
What kind of feedback do you want from climbers?
Mariano: I enjoy hearing about equitability, perception of difficulty, what type of style they like.
Cayden: Hearing what people don’t like isn’t as helpful as what they DO like – I love hearing what they do like. If there are specific movements, holds, and styles they prefer, it gives us a better idea of what we should set. But of course, basic feedback and general comments are always encouraged! It all helps.
The setters aren’t the only ones who love to hear about their work: we have feedback forms for setting but also yoga, group fitness, and more of our programs! Try out a class and let us know what we can do to make this the best place to learn and grow.
What do you think is the most important habit for people to help them improve their climbing and move up in grade?
Mariano: Consistency and rest. You should be going into the gym frequently, but you also need to take rest days to avoid injury. Injuries will set you back in your progression, so make sure you rest! Building a community is also a great tool – it lets you learn from different athletes, which can help enrich your experience as a climber.
Seb: Try to step out of your comfort zone. Work on things that are harder than what you think you’re capable of. Don’t get too sad when you get stuck, because you’ll be there a lot of the time. Just keep pushing forward, and you will get there.
Gigi: Intention! You can climb for a long time, but when you are climbing with just strength in mind you can get injured. Focus on getting better by being smarter than the problem, rather than just getting stronger.
What’s the difference between the spray wall and the boards for improving climbing skills?
Seb: Spray walls allow you to be creative with your climbs, where the boards are already set.
Cayden: Boards don’t require as much creativity, and they allow for more powerful climbing. Spray gives a greater diversity of hold types, and they are often less busy. I prefer spray walls for circuits, staying on the wall longer and more types of moves.
Mariano: Training tools should be used for specific goals. Boards will help improve overhang and crimp skills. The spray wall helps with power, contact strength, and dynamic moves.
Ready to build on your skills with some intelligent community help? Our setters have put together unique courses that will help you hone in on your technique, with topics like introductory and advanced footwork, climbing with volumes, and an introduction to lower body coordination. Join these on-wall experts for a special series designed to elevate your game.
